Imagine
a city where the exotic chic of old Asia blends with the dynamic face
of new Asia. Where the medieval and modern co-exist. A city with a blend
of Parisian grace and Asian pace, an architectural museum piece
evolving in harmony with its history, rather than bulldozing through
like many of the region’s capitals. Hanoi is where imagination becomes
reality.
A
mass of motorbikes swarms through the tangled web of streets that is
the Old Quarter, a cauldron of commerce for almost 1000 years and still
the best place to check the pulse of this resurgent city. Hawkers in
conical hats ply their wares, locals sip coffee and bia hoi (beer)
watching life (and plenty of tourists) pass them by. Witness
synchronised t’ai chi at dawn on the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake while
goateed grandfathers tug at their wisps over the next chess move. See
the bold and beautiful dine at designer restaurants and cut the latest
moves on the dance floor. Hanoi has it all: the ancient history, a
colonial legacy and a modern outlook. There is no better place to
untangle the paradox that is modern Vietnam.
The
grand old dame of Asia, Hanoi lay in a deep slumber after Vietnam’s
partition in 1954 until the effects of economic reforms kicked in four
decades later. The city survived American bombs and Russian planners to
emerge relatively unscathed in the early 1990s as an example of a
French-conceived colonial city. Huge mansions line grand boulevards, and
lakes and parks dot the city, providing a romantic backdrop to the
nonstop soundtrack. There are still moments of Paris, as the smell of
baguettes and café au lait permeates street corners.
Known
by many names down the centuries, Thanh Long (City of the Soaring
Dragon) is the most evocative, and let there be no doubt that this
dragon is on the up once more.
A Thousand Years of Culture...
Hanoi has
an elegance, a grace, unlike any other city in Asia. It is a stately
capital, an old grande dame whose worn beauty hints at untold stories - a
secret past. It is a city that invites nostalgia, just as it invites
questions - who else has stopped beneath this spreading banyan tree? Who
once live in that proud colonial villa? Who lives there now?
In
the wide, tree-lined boulevards of the French Quarter, the past is
palpable. History clings to the sun-drenched walls like moss.
But
the fine colonial mansions are but one layer of history. Strolling
around the little lake in the heart of Hanoi, where legends grow thicker
than water lilies, you will get a sense of the city's true cultural
depth.
One
myth tells of a golden turtle, which rose from the lake's green depths
to present Vietnam's King with a magical sword, used to repel northern
invaders in the 15th century!
Hanoi's
position as Vietnam's capital, when Emperor Ly Thai To established the
court of Thang Long (Ascending Dragon) on this site.
Over
the centuries the city's name changed several times, until Emperor Tu
Duc christened it Hanoi (City in a bend of the River) in 1831. Then,
from 1902 to 1953, Hanoi was the capital of French Indochina.
Vietnam's
long struggle for independence and its birth as a socialist state are
commemorated in many of the city's museums and monuments, the most
famous which is President Ho Chi Minh's imposing stone mausoleum.
In
the Old Quarter Hanoi’s rich past comes to life. Stroll down the
ancient guild streets, where the wares on offer have remained unchanged
for centuries: traditional medicines and herbs, brightly coloured votive
paper, bolts of finely spun silk, silver and jade jewellery.
Ten
centuries of culture and commerce are layered like paint, creating a
vibrant mural past and present. Here you will see the life of Hanoi: the
women had pad past with baskets of bread perched on their heads; the
flower vendors wheeling bicycles festooned with fresh-cut roses, mums
and lilies, the brown-robed monks on their way to the pagoda.
Today,
the city’s aura of culture continues to draw intellectuals and artists.
Dozens of galleries showcase the fruits of a flourishing contemporary
art scene.
This
creative legacy is not surprising, given that Hanoi invites quiet
contemplation. With its shady lakes and countless street-sides cafes,
the city tempts you to linger over a cup of thick Vietnamese coffee and
watch the world go by.
Spend some time in Hanoi and you too will fall under its languid spell. Hanoi’s cloistered beauty hides Vietnam’s ancient soul.
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